Retailers

THE STREETS between Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling and Jalan Penang form the western part of the historic enclave. They are dominated by restaurants and retail outlets. Lebuh Campbell and Lebuh Cintra were once George Town’s “red light” district, but are now quite respectable. Today, Indian Muslim restaurants are the biggest draws, with the famed Hameediyah and Taj restaurants standing out.

Lebuh Campbell wet market is stocked with fresh produce. It was built on a former Muslim cemetery and is known locally as “Hutan Mayat” (Jungle of Corpses). Only one grave, that of a holy man, remains in the market. Lebuh Chulia, running parallel to Lebuh Campbell, is a world renowned backpackers haunt. It connects Jalan Penang to Lebuh Pantai. The old tramcar used to pass through it. Two outstanding places one must visit is the Teochew Association, which recently won a UNESCO Award for Conservation, and the Noordin Family Mausoleum, part of which is dedicated to the Penang Malay Artists Association.

Jalan Penang is George Town’s main street. It is divided into three sections: Jalan Farquhar in the north, Jalan Dr Lim Chwee Leong in the middle, before terminating in Jalan Magazine in the south.

At the north end is Upper Penang Road, which is a pedestrian mall. A Sunday bazaar called Little Penang Street Market showcasing art and craft, amateur shows and a food fair takes place every last Sunday of the month. This is also the most vibrant night spot in the enclave, with an assortment of bars, pubs and discothèques. In the Garage, formerly the Wearne Brothers showroom, is Maison de Puppee, an upmarket fashion design house.

The middle portion of Jalan Penang was famed for its old cinemas, particularly the Cathay and Majestic (Jalan Khoo Sian Ewe). There were also the Boston Cafe and Loke Thye Kee restaurants, where prospective brides met their partners. The hustle and bustle of town can still be felt at Chowrasta Market, one of several wet markets in the historic city. This wet market also houses Penang’s largest collection of used book stores upstairs.

KOMTAR

Where Jalan Penang meets Jalan Dr Lim Chwee Leong and Jalan Burma is Komplex Tun Abdul Razak (KOMTAR). This 65-storey building, completed in 1986, was then the tallest building in Southeast Asia. It now forms the southern boundary of the historic city. An observation deck on the 57th floor provides a fine view of the city.

Jalan Burma

Named after the Burmese community, Jalan Burma is a busy thoroughfare linking George Town to the north coast. The Nine Emperor Gods festival is centred in the Kuan Yin See temple. New World Park, formerly an entertainment and fair ground, has been converted into an upmarket hawker food centre. There are also stage performances and exclusive restaurants.

This road was created to commemorate the successful transfer of the administration of the Straits Settlements from Calcutta in Bengal, to London in 1869. It also marks the western boundaries of the buffer zone. Historically, many Indo-Malay families lived in the area. One can still find traces of these dwellings in the side roads adjoining Jalan Transfer like Lorong Hutton, Jalan Dinding and Jalan Kedah.

It is fitting that the historic city ends here. The Dato Koyah Shrine, located at Jalan Transfer, is dedicated to Dato Koyah, regarded as a saint by the convict labourers who built many of George Town’s early streets. Ismalia Bakery, across the street, is famed for its “Roti Bengali”.